Posts from the ‘Argentina’ Category

Mar 26

Gaucho Pants

I look like a canary

Argentina isn’t know for making quality clothes, but Gaucho pants make up for all of that. They are part of the traditional dress of the gauchos who live in the pampas of Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil and Chile Patagonia, and are the most comfortable trousers ever. They are 100% cotton, non-shrinking, thick and come in many colours. They can be worn by men and women anywhere. The ones I’m wearing in the photo above are Pampero brand made.

Some of you may remember my terrible luck purchasing clothes during Buenos Aires pride back in November. Argentines tend to dress on the conservative side, and prefer to wear darker colours. Most Argentines I know take great pride with how they dress, and have neat, tidy appearances. Unlike North America, okay Canada, where the hoodie sweater dominates, porteños, especially, dress to impress.

A former student of mine was fond of telling a story about a teacher from Australia who arrived for class wearing only a t-shirt and shorts. She couldn’t believe his moxy! For her it was unheard of to pay so little attention to one’s personal appearance.

I can understand her attitude to an extent, but I’m too aware of how poorly made the clothes are in Argentina. Each clothing purchase I have made has been a disappointing experience. I bought a pair of shorts that changed colour after their first wash and a t-shirt and a few tank tops that tore after a few wears. So forgive me if I think my student might have a little explaining to do. Or maybe I’m just getting fatter.

My perceptions changed when I discovered Gaucho pants. They are extraordinarily comfortable and go with almost everything in my wardrobe, which consists mostly of t-shirts and more t-shirts.

They’re almost as good as Alpargatas.

To learn more check out Gaucho Clothes.

Mar 25

2 Comments

Dulce de leche

When I first moved to Argentina I was taken aback by how much sugar porteños consume. A lot. One thing I can’t fault them on is dulce de leche. Nothing has rocked my world more than this delicacy. This afternoon I ate lunch in Nuñez and treated myself to a little dessert. At first I thought I was ordering lemon meringue but inside was, you guessed it, dulce de leche. Yum. I have to remember to take a few jars back with me to Toronto.

Oh, the blackforest cake also looked yummy.

Mar 25

2 Comments

Villa Ocampo

Unfortunately stepping on the grass is prohibited so the only way to get a decent photograph of the house is to crawl under a few trees by the gate.

Villa Ocampo is the former residence of the late Victoria Ocampo, one of Latin American’s most prominent cultural figures. She was most famous as a writer and Argentine intellectual. Villa Ocampo was a meeting place for Buenos Aires’ intellectual establishment, including Jorge Luis Borges. The house was built by Victoria’s father, and became her permanent home in 1940 and remained so until her death in 1979. She is buried in La Recoleta Cemetery. Villa Ocampo is located in the posh San Isidro neighbourhood. Photographs of the exterior of the building are permitted but not inside. However if you sneak downstairs to the basement where the public washrooms are located you can snap a few pictures of the laundry room.

This is me near the kitchen. There's a tiny restaurant inside that I didn't bother to try.

Nothing says decadence more than a statue!

A fountain is also a clear indication of class

The house is surrounded by lovely gardens and pristine gravel walkways

It was a cloudy and rainy day in Buenos Aires

I love how the houses in Argentina are painted with vibrant colours. I wish we did the same thing in Canada.

The terrace is reserved for private functions, unfortunately!

Out back is this cute Gazebo that used to overlook the Rio de le Plata. The view has since been replaced with old trees and over-populated roads.

Mar 25

Someone destroyed my favourite Gauchito Gil shrine

If you remember back in October I wrote about my introduction to the legendary Gauchito Gil mythology one evening while visiting my friend Cristian in Nuñez. Well the very shrine that captivated my attention has been destroyed by scoundrels! I am so upset, that I’ve decided to start a foundation to raise money to restore the shrine back to its former glory. Okay, no I’m not, but I’m outraged damn it! Who would do such a thing?

Mar 24

Wall Mania

Wall Mania in Palermo. Painted by Pum Pum and Ever it's the latest artwork in a series to promote Roger Waters’ The Wall tour in Argentina.

I woke up super early this morning because I wanted to check out some street art in Palermo and Congreso.

The blog, BA Street Art is an excellent resource for me when I’m in the mood to wander the city in search of good art. I love how Buenos Aires embraces this medium, because, in Toronto, where I am from, graffiti art is frowned upon.

I woke up super early this morning because I wanted to check out some street art in Palermo and Congreso. The blog, BA Street Art is an excellent resource for me when I’m in the mood to wander the city in search of good art. I love how Buenos Aires embraces this medium, because, in Toronto, where I am from, graffiti art is frowned upon.

Wall Mania began as a campaign series to promote Roger Waters’ The Wall Tour in Argentina. He was in Buenos Aires a couple of weeks ago, I know this because I could hear the concert from my apartment in Belgrano.

I don’t think the images below are associated with Wall Mania, but then again how can they not be, considering that they depict a young man being covered by a brick wall? So I’m including them here.

: 1

The mural below is called Book Frenzy. It’s located at Plaza del Congreso and features 12 faceless figures wearing school uniforms rummaging through a pile of books. I went all the way to Congreso this morning to take some photographs but a family selling mate had set up shop in front of it so I couldn’t. I love the scene it envisions so much that I lifted the picture below from the BA Street Art blog to show you.

Book Frenzy. Artwork by Jaz in Congreso. Photo courtesy of BA Street Art blog.

Well that’s it for now, I hope you’re all having a lovely Saturday.

Mar 23

Museo Evita

Two weekends ago, after putting it off for so long, I paid a visit the Museo Evita in Palermo. For only 15 pesos you get a nice little Evita postcard (see left) and…. well, that’s it. Oh and you get to walk around the museum.

My fascination with Eva Perón began in 1996 when the movie Evita, starring Madonna, was released in theatres. Like many people I was moved by the story of a young peasant girl who moves to the big city, overcomes adversity and changes the social landscape of her nation.

If we’re to believe the legend, Evita took from the rich and gave to the poor. While she was at it, she took a little from the rich for herself.

Not much in Argentina has changed. The current president has created a welfare state where 50 per cent of the population receives government subsidies of about 1,800 pesos a month. Most president’s focus on job creation, but this way she’s guaranteed half the population’s vote come election time. She received 54 per cent in 2011. She advocates a socialist life for everyone but herself. Since becoming president, Cristina’s net worth has exponentially increased while the average Argentine struggles to afford a loaf of bread. Corruption in Argentina has changed little from when Eve Perón was alive.

Anyway, the museum. There was plenty of fashion on display, and videos of Evita’s many passionate speeches from the Casa Rosada. It was definitely worth the admission. The building itself was purchased by the María Eva Duarte de Perón Social Aid Foundation in 1948 and there are many photographs on display of Argentina’s famous first lady posing with her descamisados.

Unfortunately I got an aura migraine while I was there and couldn’t enjoy the world-renowned restaurant on the ground floor. Oh well… if I look on the bright side at least I saved a couple of pesos!

Check out the museum, you’ll enjoy it I’m sure.

Mar 23

TGIF

This post has nothing to do with it being Friday but I wanted to write TGIF so there you have it.

The weather has certainly cooled in Buenos Aires. While visiting Iguazu Falls last month I was stymied by the humidity. There’s no remnants of that left, thank God. I don’t believe in God so I don’t know why I keep referring to Him all the time. Habit I suppose.

There were a couple of more photos I wanted to share with you from my trip to Iguazu. During my arduous one day journey I remember two areas where the roar of the waterfalls couldn’t reach. There lies stillness.

Sometimes when I’m walking through Beunos Aires I’m overwhelmed by the population and noise pollution and then, I turn a corner, and I’m alone. It’s as though I’ve landed in an undiscovered region. I stand there, close my eyes and take a long breath. Then, the fear that I’ll be mugged at any moment bitch slaps me across the face and I return to reality.

Stillness is a welcome distraction though.

The world suddenly stopped

The long road of water

Mar 23

2 Comments

Van Koning Bar

11 p.m. St. Patty's Day. When will I learn that porteños rise after 2 a.m?

After Belgrano, Las Cañitas is my favourite Buenos Aires barrio. The best place to grab a pinta in Las Cañitas is at Van Koning Bar. Dark, drafty and illuminated by only candles, it reminds of ghostly haunts like Gordon’s Wine Bar in London, England. What joy!

Mostly candle lit, but electricity isn't far!

Mar 23

4 Comments

El Club de la Milanesa

A couple of weekends ago I went to El Club de la Milanesa for, you guessed it, milanesa! All the milanesa one could possibly hope for is served at this Recoleta establishment. I took some photos, mostly of the beer tower, none of the food.

Priorities. Check it out if you’re in Buenos Aires.