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Posts from the ‘Argentina’ Category

51 dead in La Plata

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This is me in La Plata, Argentina last year. Torrential rains buried the province of Buenos Aires in water this week and La Plata was the hardest hit, with over 50 deaths. La Plata is the provincial capital and one of the highlights of my time in Argentina. I always looked forward to my visits there, and I was saddened to hear of the devastation many of the locals have experienced.

The federal government is usually very generous in times like these, so I hope that the families will receive subsidies, especially for the local businesses who may have been effected.

My thoughts are with everyone there. It always bothers me when regions with limited means are brought asunder by natural causes. It doesn’t seem fair.

But if there’s one thing I can count on, it’s the strength of spirit of Argentines. They can withstand anything, and they have.

South Americans are not as warm as they say they are

Red Frog Beach on Bocas Del Toro island

Red Frog Beach on Bocas Del Toro island

I’ve always been told that South Americans are warm, generous people while North Americans are cold and selfish. Having lived in Argentina for a year and travelling to Panama where I’ve spent five days trying to locate my luggage, in part due to the incompetence of a broken and corrupt infrastructure, I would have to disagree.

In fact, North Americans often go out of their way to ensure that travellers to our countries are treated with the utmost respect. We want tourists to have good experiences so that when they return home they will tell their family and friends what an enjoyable time that they had.

Whenever a problem has arisen in Argentina or Panama, I’ve been treated like I’m just a complainer. Which is true, I’m not going to lie to you. But there are some unexpected mishaps that occur in foreign lands that require assistance from natives. In my experiences I’ve found people in South and Central America to be unhelpful, and no one empathizes with what I’m going through.

For example, when I was pick-pocketed in Argentina, locals treated me like I should have expected it to happen, and kept telling me to calm down and relax. However, when they were in similar situations, and they often were, they rarely took their own advice.

My luggage, with all my clothes and valuables is lost in a Panama airport. But when I call the airport luggage department they are useless. That is if they can even be bothered to answer the phone, because 90% of the time, they don’t. They’re indecisive and can’t be bothered to help. There were about 20 people working at the airport when I visited there this afternoon, but no one was actually working. There is such a level of laziness and apathy to other people’s problems that it’s disheartening. If it isn’t within the family, they just don’t care.

I know I’m generalizing. There have been other examples where people from this region have been welcoming, and kind, but not when I’ve been in a crisis. In North America, both examples I listed above would be met with astonishment, disbelief and finally, a plan to resolve the problem.

Here, they just throw their hands up in their air, shrug their shoulders, and say, “At least you weren’t murdered.” Thanks. I guess all this bragging about how warm they are is saved for the bedroom, and the multiple partners they profess to love. Ouch. But listen, I can be as amorous as the next person, it doesn’t make me warm, or even kind. It just makes me slutty.

Note: Since writing this my luggage has been found, and is currently in my possession. Thankfully it was not laced with cocaine. I think.

Tree comfort

Buenos Aires Tree

Buenos Aires Tree

Buenos Aires is not a green city. There are few parks, but the trees that line the streets are lush and old. They protect the roads from sunlight and are a magical sight for someone from the modern city of Toronto. You’ve gotta check it out some day!

Buenos Aires clouds

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It’s been a hot summer in Buenos Aires with temperatures nearing 40 °C. It’s made for some interesting weather patterns. When I lived there I observed a lot of spectacular lightning flashes. You could always depend on the rain to offer a reprieve from the dry, lingering heat. Being a person who adores walks in the rain, I was always happy when the sky began to darken, and the clouds took centre stage.

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Photo essay: Argentina

Reserva Ecológica de Buenos Aires

Reserva Ecológica de Buenos Aires

I think I might have had a stroke. No hear me out. I’ve noticed that I’m confusing words when I talk and write. For example, instead of saying “are” I say “is”. What the what? So I’ve spent the entire day lying on my back — not the good kind of lying on my back — watching 30 Rock season 3. I can’t get enough. Then I looked outside the window and watched the snow fall. That got me thinking more about Buenos Aires, and in my delusional state I put together this photo essay of Argentina and the places that I visited while I lived there. Why did I complain about it so much? Clearly it’s beautiful.

Reserva Ecológica de Buenos Aires

Reserva Ecológica de Buenos Aires

Obelisk of Buenos Aires

Obelisk of Buenos Aires

Reserva Ecológica de Buenos Aires

Reserva Ecológica de Buenos Aires

Bosques de Palermo

Bosques de Palermo

Cathedral of La Plata

Cathedral of La Plata

Remembering Mendoza

Remembering Mendoza

Atuel Canyon

The majestic Atuel Canyon

Winding Road

Winding Road

Cariló

Cariló

Jesus on cross

I’m having a vision of Jesus dying for our sins

Flor de metal

Flor de metal

Casa Rosada

Casa Rosada

Is that a unicorn?

Is that a unicorn?

Avenida Cabildo

Avenida Cabildo, one of the major arteries of Buenos Aires

Pumpkin milanesa a la napolitana

Pumpkin milanesa a la napolitana

So last week I had strep throat. When I get sick it’s rarely the flu or the common cold. Nope, it’s strep throat. I started a course of antibiotics (which I do not like to do) and finish them today. Unfortunately yesterday morning I started to feel a nasal drip in the back of my nose, and I immediately knew what was happening: Sinus infection. Which is another illness I am commonly afflicted with.  Unfortunately I am genetically prone to sinus infections and migraines. I love my genes (sense sarcasm).

I am at home trying to nurse myself back to good health. I do not like to call in sick to work. First I’m always afraid that my employer will think that I’m making it up, as people are wont to do. Definitely not me though. Never. But three sick days in two weeks doesn’t look very good while my colleagues are working their asses off. I never get sick, but these past three months have taken a huge toll on my health. One day last month I woke up and couldn’t feel my body. That’s right, my body was numb. It went away as quickly as it came, but that was a strange day.

I’m comforted by the knowledge that the worst thing you can do when you’re sick is to go to work. First, you’ll prolong your illness by a few days and potentially contaminate others. Sinus infections are usually viral, triggered by a cold, or in my case, strep throat. Even on antibiotics you can get a sinus infection, because antibiotics are prescribed to treat bacterial infections. I’m just informing you, for future reference. Randomocity.

Anyway, Toronto is in the midst of winter and it’s usually around this time of year that people are infected with odd diseases. February is always a rough month because it represents the last month of cold weather and the emergence of spring in March.

There is nothing more special than spring and summer in Toronto. There’s so much to do and so many people to do it with. All this thought of warm weather reminds me that Argentina is currently enjoying their summer. I remember the heat vividly. I couldn’t drink a glass of red wine in Buenos Aires without getting a huge headache and for a long time I blamed my tolerance, but then over time I realized that it was the heat that was causing the pain, and drinking alcohol simply dehydrated me more quickly. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

One of the best culinary experiences in Argentina is milanesa, a common breaded cutlet dish. Most importantly it can be vegetarian, using eggplant, soy, or even pumpkin. Milanesa is primarily found in South American countries, and rarely disappoints the taste buds. Ramiro made me my first eggplant milanesa. I visited heaven that night. The next day I tried to replicate his recipe, to disastrous results.

This brings me to an update. I am going to be visiting Bocas Del Toro, Panama for two weeks in March. I have bought myself a speedo and plan on reading on the beach while checking out all the hotties. I have never had a beach holiday in my life, and this was planned a couple of years ago so there’s no way out of it. Unfortunately I have to take unpaid leave from work, which makes me look worse in the eyes of my colleagues, I’m certain.

One more announcement! My Globe and Mail essay will be published February 11, both online and print. An illustration was even commissioned to accompany my words! It’s a full-page article, and I’m very proud of it. Check the Facts and Arguments section next Monday. For those of you unfamiliar, the Globe and Mail is Canada’s newspaper of record, like the New York Times in the United States.

Cignelli out suckers.

Buenos Aires sky

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The bully in heels, indeed

When life was simpler

A year ago I was in Argentina. Taking it easy. My only worry was what I was going to eat that day (it’s meat country), but that’s the way I preferred it. Eventually though I had to come back to Canada, find a job and maintain some semblance of a living. Typical work days can be difficult, but not because the job itself is super challenging. The problem is that I have to watch 50-year-old women behave like teenage bullies.

Rarely am I the victim, but that doesn’t mean I’m not affected as an observer. I am not quite sure how occupations alter the human psyche, but these women lose all perspective. Many years ago I read an article titled The Bully in Heels that I share from time to time on Twitter in the hopes that one young woman will stumble upon it, and feel less alone.

It is astonishing how so many “older” women are willing to compromise their integrity by bullying younger, more competent female colleagues. In the rare instance that I’m a target myself, I’m able to laugh it off, but that’s only because it’s less persistent. Men, straight men especially, have it much easier. Trust me on this one.

The seething animosity can be difficult to stomach, but what’s worse is the manipulative, passive aggressive undermining behaviour, with only one intended purpose: To make the victim look stupid. It’s a sad person who revels in making others feel small.

Some interesting quotes from the article that you might find of value:

“… bullying typically occurs in an organization with poor leadership….”

“Even though it’s a form of violence — psychological violence — it’s still seen as the victim’s fault.”

“The employee under attack is often a competent, committed one, singled out for her strengths, not her weaknesses.”

“It’s one of the most important health problems in the workplace today. Bullying can happen anywhere. No one’s safe.”

“The disruptive behaviour under fluorescent lights also goes beyond the personal: It hurts colleagues, hampers productivity and costs the health-care system.”

And it’s not made up. I see it firsthand each and every single day.

I pine once again for those care-free days in Buenos Aires, sipping café con leche and eating sweet custard pie while basking in the crisp morning sun.

True I had no money. But I was definitely happier.

How Argentina saved my life

Remembering Mendoza

I lived in Argentina on and off for one year. To say that it affected me is an understatement. It profoundly changed my life.

For a long time before I visited South America I was tired of living the life that was expected of me. Trust me, I understand how self-indulgent and possibly arrogant this might sound, but everything a person was supposed to accomplish I had, sans children. Yet I felt empty. Don’t get me wrong, even during that time I was still capable of appreciating my life. I understood, and still understand how fortunate and blessed my life has been.

There was just something missing. I guess I would call it first world problems. I found that people in North America were overly concerned with being “busy”, and if they weren’t, the only alternative after a long day at work was to sit in front of the television avoiding the harsh winter.

I am not an image obsessed person, meaning I try not to spend too much time trying to convince people that I am this or that, because I don’t think that I have anything to prove. I don’t really need recognition, and I am not one of those people who identify as something, like a writer, or whatever my occupation or vocation might be. I’m just okay being me, and that’s enough.

After some time, I was tired of late night drinking binges and gossiping about work. I don’t know how to explain it in a way that people will understand, but I felt there was so much energy lost if my only purpose was to get up in the morning to work and socialize. I needed more spiritual fulfillment.

So enter South America. I had never been interested in the southern hemisphere before, and then one day, I made a harrowing 14 hour plane trip to Buenos Aires.

Argentina was not an easy time for me. Trust me, you can read some of the posts I wrote from my year there and I sound like a lunatic. Everything was so slow, and the tiniest tasks seemed overly complicated. I also missed my dog, who while I was gone, grew sick.

Sometimes I still look back at my experiences in Argentina and have to shake my head, like the time when I had to wait in three separate lines just to buy a nose hair trimmer. Yes, you read that correctly. As some men age their hair stops growing in some places and pops up elsewhere. It’s weird. The joys of growing older.

The lesson that I took from my Argentina experience was simple: Relax. In fact, one of the things I constantly heard from Argentines was how much I needed to calm down. I was so caught up in being entertained all the time that I didn’t know how to sit and enjoy my own company. In Canada I was always on the go, filling my days just because I thought that that was what I was supposed to do.

I also came to realize how angry I was. At so many things. Mostly at how vapid our society can seem and how what we value blinds us from accepting our insecurities and moving forward. I was angry at how little we cared about each other, and at the animal cruelty so many of us ignore with apathy.

I’ve been back in Toronto for two months but I still remember Argentina fondly. One evening in Mendoza the rain clouds hovered above, like a blanket bleached by the setting sun. I stood in the field as the wind (how I love the wind) kissed my back, and in that moment I felt well. All of life’s silly problems peeled off of me.

Upon arriving in Toronto I spoke with a neighbour of mine and confessed to her my fears of returning to a rat race to no where. After she listened to my concerns for a long time she said to me that what I found in Argentina can be found in Toronto. I just have to keep looking.

So every day when life gets hairy and things begin to bother me I value silence. In it I think of that early evening in Mendoza before the rain came, and how comforting the environment was to me. I remember how lucky I am to be here, to complain, to cry and to laugh. At 33 I am so grateful to have made it this far in good health. I hope to make it 33 more.

A wonderful evening

Dinner in Buenos Aires

Lucas, Lorena, Ramiro

On one of my last evenings in Buenos Aires I was invited to dinner by a lovely couple named Lara and Cali. In addition, Ramiro’s friend Lorena was visiting from Madrid, and was accompanied by her friend Lucas, who had lived in the United States for approximately eight years. Lara and Cali were a worldly couple with a charming home filled with rare photographs, paintings and antique furniture. I could tell instantly that they enjoyed travel, arts and culture. I wanted to know so much more about them, she a daughter of an Argentine diplomat who sells wine, and he a caring and affectionate man who sells beer! I didn’t leave until well after 1 a.m. because the company was so lively and engaging that it was too difficult to tear myself away. The memories that I retain from my time in Buenos Aires are still fresh. I do miss it from time to time.

A traditional Argentine dish. I only wish I could remember what it’s called!

Mugging for the camera

Wine. Unsurprisingly, I had too much.

Alfajores

Wall decorations

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