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Archive for January, 2012

Te Amo

Dane, I love you

Dane, I love you -- and something else I can't translate!

I found this outside my apartment building in Belgrano. Since WordPress selected my blog to appear on Freshly Pressed last week I have certainly felt the love from my readers. I want to thank you for the lovely comments and emails that you have sent me. I’ve been blogging for almost a year and it’s undoubtedly my favourite hobby.

To be fair, I never intended to write a travel blog, and I wouldn’t categorize Peach Plum Orange as such. I write what appeals to me and I love taking photographs, even though I’m not very good at it. Most of all I just like to write. Writing is an effective catharsis; releasing emotion through written language is simply divine.

About living in Buenos Aires: My experiences won’t be yours, that’s for sure, and that’s why I wouldn’t consider myself a reviewer. I don’t know what would be good for anyone but myself. I’m also not a foodie. After living as a vegetarian for seven years my favourite foods are raw fruits and vegetables. So take my suggestions with a grain of salt!

Every day I wake up in this marvelous city in a state of wonderment. I have never regretted the decision to move here and I am grateful for the perspective it has provided me and my life.

The one piece of advice I can give is that if you’re an expat living in Argentina, try everything and anything — live your life to its fullest. Don’t put anything on hold. Just wake up and seize the day, and trust me, your heart will thank you.

Te amo to all of you!

Finally! A miracle! It’s raining in Buenos Aires!

Rain

Just last week I was reading an online article about the drought in Argentina, and how the country will experience more in the coming years. The writer went on to explain how the lack of rain will impact the social and economic prosperity of South America. There is no doubt that Buenos Aires is parched these days, look at the parks with their yellow grass and leathered sunbathers for proof. This morning we’ve witnessed a tremendous rainfall, and I hope that there is more to come.

Rain in Belgrano

The rain in Belgrano

Rain in Belgrano

I adore blue days

Fat drops

Fat drops

Street art in Buenos Aires

Skeletor in Buenos Aires

24′x16′ mural by Argentine artist Emy Mariani in Palermo. I am enamoured with how beautiful it is.

After my run this morning I read this great article in La Nacion about street art in Buenos Aires. One of Buenos Aires’ many admirable qualities is its tolerance of wide spread graffiti art. The law is so forbearing that many street artists from around the world come here because they know they will not be pursued like they would be in the United States, Canada or some European countries.

As soon as I read the article I ran out the door to snap some photographs. I couldn’t believe my eyes.

Under the bridge

Under the bridge near Avenida Libertador beside Skeletor was this colourful piece of art

Princess

She looks like a princess

Blue fairy

Would this be a fairy? I have no idea. No, it's not a fairy. I just answered my own question.

One more look at Skeletor

One more look at Skeletor

Parques Tres de Febrero a.k.a. Bosques de Palermo (Palermo Woods)

Bosques de Palermo

Bosques de Palermo

As an avid runner what better place is there to hit the pavement than Parque Tres de Febrero — also known as Bosques de Palermo (Palermo Woods) — in the Buenos Aires barrio of Palermo? Okay the answer to this question is obviously rhetorical, because there is no better place.

Summer in Argentina is humid, unlike anything this Canadian has ever experienced, and I have to be more cautious running outside in the scorching temperatures. I rose early this morning before it got too hot and made my way over to the park for a run.

Known for its groves, lakes and famous Rose Garden, Parque Tres de Febrero is insanely busy on the weekends, and virtually dead during the weekdays. However, it was more bearable this morning than usual as Porteños escape the city during the summer weekends for greener pastures.

You can spend hours just sitting and people watching, and for a gay man, there’s plenty of eye candy.

Bosques de Palermo is a city park of 62 acres with boat rides available on three artificial lakes. For now though, I’ve only explored the park on foot.

Well, here are some of the photos I took.

Runners in Bosques de Palermo

Runners (more like walkers) in Bosques de Palermo

The Greek Bridge

The Greek Bridge

The Greek Bridge

The Greek Bridge is one of the many entrances to The Rose Garden

The Rose Garden

A lovely couple walking through The Rose Garden

Smell the flowers

Just smell the flowers

Red brick

Crushed red brick is everywhere in BA

Fountains

After a 10km run I love to drench my head into the fountain water

The Rose Garden

The Rose Garden

Lady X

Lady X

Georgette

Georgette

Jean Giono

Jean Giono

Flowers

I couldn't find the name of these roses

Rose

I want to start singing The Rose by Bette Midler

Lake

The Rose Garden Lake, not the cleanest I've ever seen, but neither is Lake Ontario!

Palermo

The apartment buildings in Palermo are seen from a distance

Bruno

Bruno

QTP2T Bruno

My Friend Cristian went to visit his mother in Magdalana — two hours south of Capital Federal — and I foolishly agreed to dog sit his French Bulldog, Bruno. Clearly Bruno is no where near as beautiful as my Maude but he’s adorable in his own way. I just wish he would sleep more. I’m old!

Another thing I’ve learned since living here is that Argentines don’t neuter their pets. Bruno has testicles. How strange! And vulgar.

Sausage

Sausage

Tongue

He won't stop licking me and at one point was staring at me with an erection

Bruno sleeping?

Don't be deceived, he hasn't slept a minute all day

What’s a vegetarian to do?

Jueves a la Mesa

Jueves a la Mesa dinner guests

Living in meat country can be hard for a vegetarian like me. Argentina doesn’t exactly offer a plethora of variety when it comes to food. We’re not talking well-balanced meals here.

That’s why whenever a great vegetarian restaurant is presented to me I make a reservation. I love to support anything that celebrates the herbivore. Especially in Buenos Aires, where people like myself are few and far between.

Enter Jueves a la Mesa, a weekly dinner cooked and served by American expat Meghan Lewis at her home in the San Telmo barrio of Buenos Aires. It’s a 100% vegetarian three course meal. Each month includes two originally inspired menus, served two weeks in a row in the event that you miss it or want to come back for more. Last night’s theme was oriental flavours in recognition of Chinese New Year.

The menu

The menu

The food was delicious but the best part is that Meghan shares her recipes with her dinner guests. She is committed to spreading the benefits of a vegetarian diet. Her roommates help her cook and serve the meals and they do so with charm and flare.

Jueves a la Mesa operates like a closed-door restaurant: Reservations to join an intimate group of ten guests is required, and payment is accepted in cash only.

Starter

The starter

Main course

The main course -- there was a rice concoction that came with this... I forgot to take a photo of it!

Dessert

Dessert, Meghan makes her own chocolate and it's delicious

Flower decoration

Beautiful flower decorations

The company included Porteños, visitors, and expats like myself. I had a great time speaking with a visiting couple from Australia who were enjoying their last day in Buenos Aires before flying off to a wedding back home in Melbourne. I also met a lovely Argentine woman who now lives in Colombia who entertained me by talking about — wait for it — the weather.

Probably the most interesting was a young lady from Edmonton, Canada with a very large personality who has been living in Buenos Aires for one year. I was on the floor laughing when she reminisced about her first unfortunate experience at a Buenos Aires hair salon. Sufficed to say she ended up with a traditional Argentine mullet.

The bar

After dinner we headed to a bar in San Telmo for some beer. Wait, where's the beer?

However I have two criticisms about the evening. The first was the acoustics in Meghan’s apartment made it almost impossible to have a decent conversation. The room was small and voices became louder and louder until it was practically vibrating. The other was that most of the guests seemed to know each other and were friends with Meghan. When the guests have already formed exclusive cliques it makes it difficult for someone — on the outside — like myself to wedge their way in. Perhaps altering the table set-up so that people are forced to interact with individuals they don’t know would help make newcomers feel more comfortable and included.

Other than that I recommend that you make a reservation and check it out. It’s a lovely experience.

Things that baffle me about BA

The video above has nothing to do with the post I wrote below, but it’s funny. Plus Kim Richards reminds me of most Porteños in that she makes no fucking goddamn sense!

Now this might seem a little rude, and perhaps mildly xenophobic, but when you live in a developing country you soon realize why it’s developing. Usually the word ‘developing’ is looking on the bright side of reality and represents an ideal that will never be achieved.

I love Argentina, I really do, but there are very simple solutions to the many problems they face, that culturally they just haven’t figured out yet. For instance, ensure your entire staff has something to do. If your business is floundering and you’re low on cash, it doesn’t make sense to employ 15 people to sit around and do nothing. Any idiot with half a brain could figure that out.

Why are the gas stations always out of gas? I mean, this doesn’t happen anywhere else, does it? Okay, it doesn’t happen in North America. Argentines drive from station to station to receive the same news each time: ‘We’re out of gas’. Ahhh..  they always seem to have premium gas available though. How convenient!

Oh and wait, then driver’s have to queue and be directed to a pump by a slow-moving, lazy attendant. But it’s not over. You’re not allowed to pump your own gas, so when you finally make it to your pump after  30 minutes of waiting you have to wait even longer for one of the attendants — who is too busy chatting and babbling to his other attendant buddies — to come over and serve you. Then when he finally does his job, like attend to his customers, you have to wait as he processes your payment.

And why does the government subsidize everything? I mean, aren’t they broke? 50 per cent of the population lives in poverty for Christ’s Sake. The government subsidizes public transportation but doesn’t make it mandatory that riders on the overland train pay for their journey. Wouldn’t the solution to this problem involve a strategy that included payment for services acquired? I suppose they have to first admit that THERE IS A PROBLEM.

I could go on and on, and I probably will in a future post, but right now here are the top 5 things that irk me about Buenos Aires. Pay close attention to number 2 — that one really bothers me! Clearly.

1. Lack of change and small bills. I am paid in cash with 100 denominations. Bank machines dispense $100 bills only. Unfortunately shops in Buenos Aires rarely have change or small bills, making a desirable coffee run slow, arduous, languorous and often too painful for a repeat. I am asked consistently if I have change, and consistently I reply with NO. Shouldn’t businesses, who handle cash daily, have bills of every denomination? Wait wait wait. That would make too much sense.

2. Line-ups. A month ago I went to Farmacity to purchase a nose-hair trimmer. Laugh all you want but I need one! The cashier asked if I would like to add the free three-month warranty to my product in the likely event that it was defected. I agreed, paid the fee and she directed me to a man a few metres away who took my product out of the plastic bag, and then asked for my receipt. I happily handed it to him, and he nodded and pointed to the pharmacy and told me that I would have to speak with the pharmacist to finalize the warranty. I was confused, and argued that the date on my receipt was all I needed to prove when I had bought the merchandise. But if there was one thing I knew about Buenos Aires by this point, was to expect unnecessary steps with unclear, muddled justifications.  So I go to the pharmacist, but I have to take a number and queue even though I had already bought what I needed. When my number was called the pharmacist opened my product, removed the instruction manual and stamped it with the date of purchase. I was like, are you fucking serious? What should have taken two minutes lasted almost half an hour. And this is not an exaggeration.

3. People are slow. They are so slow that I have had thoughts of murder. If an Argentine promises to meet you at 3 p.m. immediately assume that he/she means 4:30 p.m. Argentines don’t rush for anything, unless they’re driving and are stopped by a red light. Then they’ll honk their horns in furious anger at the Gods for cursing them.

4. Dogs are well-behaved. Like too well-behaved. It’s weird. I think they might be robots. Like the Stepford Wives, but only dogs. Keep one eye open when you sleep.

5. Dog shit. It’s everywhere and you will step in it. I know from experience.

In summary most of Buenos Aires’ problems are cultural. That is all.

My upcoming holidays are making me happy

Avenida Cabildo

Avenida Cabildo, one of the major arteries of Buenos Aires

It’s hard to believe that I’ve been living in Buenos Aires for 5 months now. So much has happened yet I’m surprised with how normal it all seems. There are days where I’m bored out of my mind and then there are those where I’m exhausted from the energy of the city.

President Cristina Fernandez instituted several new holidays during the month of February and I plan on taking advantage of her generosity. For mid-February I have organized a trip to San Rafael in the province of Mendoza. I am renting a house for four nights with a pool. Isn’t that cool? I plan on relaxing, reading, writing and of course, visiting world famous vineyards in the Napa Valley of Argentina. In case you’re not familiar, Mendoza is the largest wine producing area in Latin America with over 800 wineries.

In addition to Mendoza, I’m also planning a trip to Colonia, Uruguay and Iguazu Falls later in the same month. While touring Iguazu I plan on staying at this hostel that I read about on the Time Travel Turtle’s blog. These trips ensure that I have lots of photos and stories to post on my blog which makes me a happy man.

Now that you are updated on my near-future plans have a look at some of the photographs I took this morning during my coffee run.

Avenida Cabildo

I live on Cuba and Congreso, a mere 2 minute walk to Avenida Cabildo where I catch the subte

Beunos Aires apartment

This is the exterior of the apartment building where I am staying in Buenos Aires

Cardboard

People like the boy you see to your right are know as los cartoneros, and they wander throughout Buenos Aires collecting cardboard in exchange for a few pesos

Frida Kahlo ristorante

Frida Kahlo ristorante

Graffiti in Buenos Aires

Graffiti is everywhere in Buenos Aires

House in Buenos Aires

I love the houses in Argentina

Joan Rivers makes me laugh

I love Chelsea Handler but I love Joan Rivers more. So I’m on Team Joan.

Rebel Wilson

I’ve spent two wonderful hours watching videos of Rebel Wilson on YouTube. I love her. If I were straight I would ask her to marry me and she would say no (primarily because I’m gay) and I would be devastated and never love again.

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