Jueves a la Mesa

Jueves a la Mesa dinner guests

Living in meat country can be hard for a vegetarian like me. Argentina doesn’t exactly offer a plethora of variety when it comes to food. We’re not talking well-balanced meals here.

That’s why whenever a great vegetarian restaurant is presented to me I make a reservation. I love to support anything that celebrates the herbivore. Especially in Buenos Aires, where people like myself are few and far between.

Enter Jueves a la Mesa, a weekly dinner cooked and served by American expat Meghan Lewis at her home in the San Telmo barrio of Buenos Aires. It’s a 100% vegetarian three course meal. Each month includes two originally inspired menus, served two weeks in a row in the event that you miss it or want to come back for more. Last night’s theme was oriental flavours in recognition of Chinese New Year.

The menu

The menu

The food was delicious but the best part is that Meghan shares her recipes with her dinner guests. She is committed to spreading the benefits of a vegetarian diet. Her roommates help her cook and serve the meals and they do so with charm and flare.

Jueves a la Mesa operates like a closed-door restaurant: Reservations to join an intimate group of ten guests is required, and payment is accepted in cash only.

Starter

The starter

Main course

The main course -- there was a rice concoction that came with this... I forgot to take a photo of it!

Dessert

Dessert, Meghan makes her own chocolate and it's delicious

Flower decoration

Beautiful flower decorations

The company included Porteños, visitors, and expats like myself. I had a great time speaking with a visiting couple from Australia who were enjoying their last day in Buenos Aires before flying off to a wedding back home in Melbourne. I also met a lovely Argentine woman who now lives in Colombia who entertained me by talking about — wait for it — the weather.

Probably the most interesting was a young lady from Edmonton, Canada with a very large personality who has been living in Buenos Aires for one year. I was on the floor laughing when she reminisced about her first unfortunate experience at a Buenos Aires hair salon. Sufficed to say she ended up with a traditional Argentine mullet.

The bar

After dinner we headed to a bar in San Telmo for some beer. Wait, where's the beer?

However I have two criticisms about the evening. The first was the acoustics in Meghan’s apartment made it almost impossible to have a decent conversation. The room was small and voices became louder and louder until it was practically vibrating. The other was that most of the guests seemed to know each other and were friends with Meghan. When the guests have already formed exclusive cliques it makes it difficult for someone — on the outside — like myself to wedge their way in. Perhaps altering the table set-up so that people are forced to interact with individuals they don’t know would help make newcomers feel more comfortable and included.

Other than that I recommend that you make a reservation and check it out. It’s a lovely experience.

The video above has nothing to do with the post I wrote below, but it’s funny. Plus Kim Richards reminds me of most Porteños in that she makes no fucking goddamn sense!

Now this might seem a little rude, and perhaps mildly xenophobic, but when you live in a developing country you soon realize why it’s developing. Usually the word ‘developing’ is looking on the bright side of reality and represents an ideal that will never be achieved.

I love Argentina, I really do, but there are very simple solutions to the many problems they face, that culturally they just haven’t figured out yet. For instance, ensure your entire staff has something to do. If your business is floundering and you’re low on cash, it doesn’t make sense to employ 15 people to sit around and do nothing. Any idiot with half a brain could figure that out.

Why are the gas stations always out of gas? I mean, this doesn’t happen anywhere else, does it? Okay, it doesn’t happen in North America. Argentines drive from station to station to receive the same news each time: ‘We’re out of gas’. Ahhh..  they always seem to have premium gas available though. How convenient!

Oh and wait, then driver’s have to queue and be directed to a pump by a slow-moving, lazy attendant. But it’s not over. You’re not allowed to pump your own gas, so when you finally make it to your pump after  30 minutes of waiting you have to wait even longer for one of the attendants — who is too busy chatting and babbling to his other attendant buddies — to come over and serve you. Then when he finally does his job, like attend to his customers, you have to wait as he processes your payment.

And why does the government subsidize everything? I mean, aren’t they broke? 50 per cent of the population lives in poverty for Christ’s Sake. The government subsidizes public transportation but doesn’t make it mandatory that riders on the overland train pay for their journey. Wouldn’t the solution to this problem involve a strategy that included payment for services acquired? I suppose they have to first admit that THERE IS A PROBLEM.

I could go on and on, and I probably will in a future post, but right now here are the top 5 things that irk me about Buenos Aires. Pay close attention to number 2 — that one really bothers me! Clearly.

1. Lack of change and small bills. I am paid in cash with 100 denominations. Bank machines dispense $100 bills only. Unfortunately shops in Buenos Aires rarely have change or small bills, making a desirable coffee run slow, arduous, languorous and often too painful for a repeat. I am asked consistently if I have change, and consistently I reply with NO. Shouldn’t businesses, who handle cash daily, have bills of every denomination? Wait wait wait. That would make too much sense.

2. Line-ups. A month ago I went to Farmacity to purchase a nose-hair trimmer. Laugh all you want but I need one! The cashier asked if I would like to add the free three-month warranty to my product in the likely event that it was defected. I agreed, paid the fee and she directed me to a man a few metres away who took my product out of the plastic bag, and then asked for my receipt. I happily handed it to him, and he nodded and pointed to the pharmacy and told me that I would have to speak with the pharmacist to finalize the warranty. I was confused, and argued that the date on my receipt was all I needed to prove when I had bought the merchandise. But if there was one thing I knew about Buenos Aires by this point, was to expect unnecessary steps with unclear, muddled justifications.  So I go to the pharmacist, but I have to take a number and queue even though I had already bought what I needed. When my number was called the pharmacist opened my product, removed the instruction manual and stamped it with the date of purchase. I was like, are you fucking serious? What should have taken two minutes lasted almost half an hour. And this is not an exaggeration.

3. People are slow. They are so slow that I have had thoughts of murder. If an Argentine promises to meet you at 3 p.m. immediately assume that he/she means 4:30 p.m. Argentines don’t rush for anything, unless they’re driving and are stopped by a red light. Then they’ll honk their horns in furious anger at the Gods for cursing them.

4. Dogs are well-behaved. Like too well-behaved. It’s weird. I think they might be robots. Like the Stepford Wives, but only dogs. Keep one eye open when you sleep.

5. Dog shit. It’s everywhere and you will step in it. I know from experience.

In summary most of Buenos Aires’ problems are cultural. That is all.

Avenida Cabildo

Avenida Cabildo, one of the major arteries of Buenos Aires

It’s hard to believe that I’ve been living in Buenos Aires for 5 months now. So much has happened yet I’m surprised with how normal it all seems. There are days where I’m bored out of my mind and then there are those where I’m exhausted from the energy of the city.

President Cristina Fernandez instituted several new holidays during the month of February and I plan on taking advantage of her generosity. For mid-February I have organized a trip to San Rafael in the province of Mendoza. I am renting a house for four nights with a pool. Isn’t that cool? I plan on relaxing, reading, writing and of course, visiting world famous vineyards in the Napa Valley of Argentina. In case you’re not familiar, Mendoza is the largest wine producing area in Latin America with over 800 wineries.

In addition to Mendoza, I’m also planning a trip to Colonia, Uruguay and Iguazu Falls later in the same month. While touring Iguazu I plan on staying at this hostel that I read about on the Time Travel Turtle’s blog. These trips ensure that I have lots of photos and stories to post on my blog which makes me a happy man.

Now that you are updated on my near-future plans have a look at some of the photographs I took this morning during my coffee run.

Avenida Cabildo

I live on Cuba and Congreso, a mere 2 minute walk to Avenida Cabildo where I catch the subte

Beunos Aires apartment

This is the exterior of the apartment building where I am staying in Buenos Aires

Cardboard

People like the boy you see to your right are know as los cartoneros, and they wander throughout Buenos Aires collecting cardboard in exchange for a few pesos

Frida Kahlo ristorante

Frida Kahlo ristorante

Graffiti in Buenos Aires

Graffiti is everywhere in Buenos Aires

House in Buenos Aires

I love the houses in Argentina

I’ve spent two wonderful hours watching videos of Rebel Wilson on YouTube. I love her. If I were straight I would ask her to marry me and she would say no (primarily because I’m gay) and I would be devastated and never love again.

Occasionally I use Ted.com lectures in my English classes. They’re great listening exercises for my students and they expose them to ideas and opinions they may be unfamiliar with. The videos serve as a great conversational tool, not only for my students, but for me.

This morning I viewed a lecture by Elizabeth Gilbert who wrote Eat, Pray, Love. I have not read the book or watched the movie but I am familiar with the story. In many ways it resembles my life, only instead of traveling to Italy, India and Indonesia, I ended up in South America.

The book became an international best seller. And it’s easy to say why. Many of us are unhappy in our lives, going from day-to-day in mundane jobs and boring relationships because it’s what we’ve been told we’re supposed to want. It’s easy to imagine why so many women, and some men, found refuge by reading Elizabeth Gilbert’s  memoir.

During her Ted.com lecture which you can view above, Gilbert talks about her success and the anxiety she feels with attempting to write a new book under such lofty expectations. I am curious what success means to her. In our society it is always connected with money, but more on that later.

Gilbert accurately summarizes that creativity and suffering are intricately linked. When you think about it, the most prolific and relevant actors, authors and musicians have endured atypical hardships. If you watch Meryl Streep in the film, Sophie’s Choice, it’s clear that she is an actress who has experienced loss and pain. There is no way a performance like that doesn’t take something from you physically and emotionally. It’s a painful process.

Today we hear the word genius bandied about freely. A year ago people were saying that Charlie Sheen was a genius. We offer the word up as though it means something, but it’s lost its might. It’s now attached more to the ego of an individual, and has been disrespected.

Ancient Greeks believed in Daemon’s, who were good, benevolent nature spirits that aided an artist’s creativity. The Romans believed that genius was a separate entity that the individual had to work in partnership with to create. Nowadays we believe that it’s something innate within all of us, and Gilbert explains that this has been detrimental for artists over the last 500 years, because it puts their success or failure squarely on their own shoulders, when in fact the artist and his/her genius are two separate energies with distinct roles in the creative process.

Tori Amos believes that her music is alive. She has explained countless times to lazy, and rather uninspired reporters, that they live apart from her, and come to her when they are prepared to be transcribed. Her respect for the song-girls (as she refers to them), and humility, are responsible for the creation of some of the most wonderful and poignant stories of the 20th and 21st Centuries.

She is not alone. Many musicians and poets including Tom Waits and the late Ruth Stone believe that energies appear to them and ask that they take dictation.Through this process of creation these artists have rediscovered what the Ancient Greeks and Romans always knew: That creation is something independent from sentient beings. Artists are the humble conduits in which these messages take life.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 157 other followers